Development of vitamin C derivatives in the field of cosmetics.

Accession number;04A0147406
Title;Development of vitamin C derivatives in the field of cosmetics.
Author; YAMAMOTO ITARU (Okayama Univ., Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sci., JPN)
Journal Title;Fragr J
Journal Code:G0987B
ISSN:0288-9803
VOL.32;NO.2;PAGE.61-73(2004)
Figure&Table&Reference;FIG.12, REF.74
Pub. Country;Japan
Language;Japanese
Abstract;Recently, a number of studies have reported the important role of active oxygen species in developing and/or progression of more than 50 human diseases. Active oxygen species are formed continuously in the human body. They are removed by enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidative defense systems under normal condition. Ascorbic acid is a natural, very effective low molecular weight free-radical scavenger. Thus, it has often served as a starting structure for the design and synthesis of pharmacologically effective antioxidants. It has a unique 2,3-enediol moiety, which is conjugated with the carbonyl group in a five-membered lactone ring. Its anion form has a strong electron-donating ability and is one of the most effective active oxygen quenchers. So far, many O-acyl, O-alkyl, and O-glucosyl ascorbate derivatives have been chemically and enzymatically synthesized and studied for their antioxidative potency, and some of them have been developed as food additives and cosmetical ingredients. In 1989, we have enzymatically devised an ascorbate derivative, 2-O-.ALPHA.-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid (AA-2G) which is highly stable for oxidative stress. It was demonstrated that this glucoside is metabolized in vivo by tissue .ALPHA.-glucosidase to release an active vitamin C and has the same antiscorbutic potency in guinea pigs fed with scorbutigenic diet as an equal amount of L-ascorbic acid. This one is now widely abailable as medicinal and food additives. Furthermore, in 1989, we have reported a series of monoacylated derivatives of AA-2G, which have the same antiscorbutic activity, and some of which have more increased absorption rate in the skin, as that of AA-2G. Here I report some aspects of ascorbate derivatives, which have been developed in recent years, in respect to the antioxidant donation in the field of cosmetics, and describe our recent results on AA-2G and 6-Acryl-AA-2G as well. (author abst.)